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Vienna Winter

It’s a grey Monday in Vienna. The common sentiment I seem to hear lately is, “Is winter over yet?” In truth, winter here has not been that cold…. but still winter, nonetheless. Recently the cold has diminished enough to rain instead of snow. But the sentiment and mood of a long grey winter remains. The early birds are starting to arrive which gives me hope that perhaps spring is not far around the corner.

I took my German test today. If was our first of two tests in the trimester. This past weekend I did my best to fill my brain with the words and grammatic understanding from the course so far. I tried to polish up some very rusty studying skills and diligently wrote note cards trying to understand and remember everything. And the test? Well, in truth I found it hard. It began with a listening and reading test which were both quite easy. But when it came time for the grammer I was unsure about many of my answers. After the test I was glad to learn I wasn’t alone as other classmates left the room wiping the sweat off their brow. The good news is, it’s over.

After class I needed some post-test unwind time… to shake off some of my nervous and studying energy. I took a walk around not far from where I live, near the Rathaus or City Hall.

Even though winter is grey and long, Vienna does it pretty well. For the most part, people embrace winter here as well as the many possible winter activities. This is a bit contradictory to my nature as when it is cold I like to hibernate and stay warm. But I can’t deny my slight enchantment with winter Vienna.

Today on my post-test stroll I wandered by the Eistraum (translation is ice dream) an impressive skating and winter play area in front of the Rathaus. It’s a maze of ice skating paths and arenas for young and old alike. I stopped and caught a glimpse of some of the afternoon skaters, some whizzing by and others relying on the wall for stability.

While it was fun to watch, I can’t say that I wanted to grab my skates and glide along. Perhaps too many memories of adolescent Friday nights and bad 80s music.

So for now, I am warm and cumfy back at home. Life has been somewhat quiet lately as I’ve settled into my modest caretaking role while my hostess is away in the US. And the grey winter continues.

How is life for you wherever you may be? It’s always good to hear from you!

Tags: Eistraum, Vienna

Categories Travel Stories

Valentine’s Diversion

15 Feb

Yesterday was Valentine’s Day. A day in truth I typically forget and don’t pay much attention to. When I exited the underground into the heart of the city, I was greeted by the always impressive Saint Stephen’s Cathedral and a feisty (in a laid back Viennese sort of way) assortment of costumed workers selling tours in a wide selection of languages. I turned the corner and noticed a few men selling brightly colored roses. I paid them no mind and continued on my way, enjoying the sunshine and focused on navigating to my tourist destination for the day.

Ever the bad navigator, I walked in the wrong direction. But perhaps not wrong after all. I passed by an impressive building, doors open with a red carpet welcoming a steady collection of people. I paused and looked hesitatantly, curious what was happening. A kind man offered me a red envelope and then said something to me in German (which mostly I still don’t understand…) “Ich spreche Englisch…” I offered. Like many Viennese, he easily flipped the switch and changed his conversation to English. “I have a Valentine letter for you from God” he said as he offered the red envelope in a friendly and gentle manner. The building as it turns out is the home of the Archbishop and once a year he opens the doors… on Valentine’s day. I was invited in for a spell to have some tea and rest a bit in the chapel if I like. “Sure” I said. Who am I to turn down a Valentine’s invitation from God. So, gratefully, I accepted the letter and made my way inside.

I followed the red carpet elegantly escorting me into the courtyard with friendly yet reserved folks there to welcome me and others guests. There were lit torches along the pathway that eventually led to the chapel. At the entrance I was offered a sheet of paper to write down my prayers or intentions as well as some candles to light. I made my way into the intimate space filled with gentle music being played and sung live from the first few rows. I took a moment to pray and made and effort to hold back the tears and sobs that often want to come rolling out when I enter a place of prayer. I did my best to lay down my burdens for the day and took a moment to reflect surrounded by the quiet energy of the other visitors who seemed somewhat like me, a bit unsure but also enchanted by this unexpected diversion.

I brought my written intentions to the front of the chapel and dropped them into the bowl collecting them, lit my candles and selected a bible verse printed on strips of paper in a bowl to the right. I took a glimpse at the verse thinking perhaps my A-2 level German had prepared me to understand just a bit…. but that was not the case. Shortly after, I left with my bible verse and Valentine’s letter from God, both in German to be understood or translated at a later time I suppose. But still, a gift nonetheless.

After that, I continued on my way. I reworked my navigation, became clear I went (sort of) in the wrong direction, and shortly after arrived at my planned destination. But still, appreciative of my unexpected Valentine’s diversion and grateful for the gentle reminder of love and the simple but generous act of a small collection of volunteers in the heart of Vienna.

Featured image, a burst of light through a narrow corridor in the heart of Vienna.

Tags: Archbishop, Valentine's Day, Vienna

Comments 2 Comments
Categories Austria, Travel Stories

Humbling

4 Feb

I just came home from German class and running a few errands. When I walked in the woman who cleans the home where I stay was already here and at work. She doesn’t speak any English, so often we smile and don’t have much to say. Today I braved a few German words… “You are a bit early” I said in what I hope was proper German. It seems I am more likely to try to communicate in German immediately after class. It is like I am more tuned into the language and less in my American brain. A few minutes later we had a brief dialog about some vegetables in the refrigerator and that I like to drink warm water. Her face lit up and smiled as I did my best to express some simple thoughts in German. Basic. Not much. But still, it is more than when I arrived here four months ago.

I can’t help but notice how humbling it is to learn and speak another language. Going from feeling like a “master” in my domain to feeling somewhat like a child. German class today was pretty good but it was also a bit par for the course… sailing along understanding about 30 – 40 % of what the teacher is saying. Doing my best to ask questions in class in German…. my simples questions often misinterpreted by our teacher.

It is quite a new experience for me, being in “midlife” learning and meandering through the beginnings of learning a new language. It is different from when I studied French in high school, tolerating the lessons, then forgetting them when I walked out the door. I was like many of the kids who I taught in Korea… not understanding the value of learning a second language and no real practical place to speak or practice it.

Being surrounded by the language I am learning is quite a different things. Here as a student I am no longer in the comfort of my familiar territory. I am the lone American and native English speaker in my German class. I am also lumped in the with sea of other Americans, some of whom are unwilling or uninterested in learning another language. From my time here in Vienna studying German I have come to more fully understand that as an English speaker from the large country of the United States and the international acceptance of the English language, it is perhaps more challenging for me to let go of my native tongue a bit and make room for play with a new one.

Lately a few people have contacted me for English tutoring. I can’t help but notice my restored ease returning to my comfort zone and place of confidence. But as I consider tutoring, I also try to keep in mind and remember my own vulnerability in the German classroom. This experience alone is an education.

As I am surrounded by mostly my European classmates, many of them speaking two or more languages, I am indeed in good company but in some ways a world apart when it comes to language. They live on a continent where neighboring countries are like the next state, each with its own culture and language. The need as well as the access to the a multi-language world is quite different from the wide English-speaking canvas of the United States.

But I suppose we don’t travel to stay the same. Don’t explore new territories to not be challenged and learn new things about ourselves.

It is truly possible in Vienna to stay in a mostly English-speaking world. Often when I go to shops and am feeling unconfident or shy, I ask first “Sprechen Sie Englisch” before continuing the conversation. Most places someone will speak at least a little English, but I have encountered some with limited to no English-speaking. Sometimes when I try to fumble my way through a bit of German I am responded to in English. And so it goes.

It is a grey wintry day here in Vienna. My hosts have been on their own adventure in the States. In just a few more days one of my hosts and their daughter return to Vienna while the mom remains in the States for a bit to continue her own work and adventure. It’s been nice to have a bit of time and space with the house to myself tending to the few basic things that need care while they are away.

All is well here as I continue to make my way with German class and a few local connections and commitments. Good-bye for now and thanks for reading!

Featured image at top: A glowing Vienna sunset strolling home in the late afternoon.

Categories Travel Stories

German Learnin’ and Gross National Happiness

25 Jan

It’s a sleepy Sunday morning in Vienna. I woke up to the early morning sound of snow shoveling. I peeked out my window and there it was. A fresh blanket of snow. It is a rare sight this winter in Vienna. It is funny how a little snow still evokes a child-like happiness in me. While is it a quiet, gray day…the snow covered streets brought a bit of brightness into the morning.

I have been tucked in bed sorting through some of my German lessons for the week. Our new trimester started a few weeks ago. Beginning the new term, it was as if our German course went through a metamorphosis over the Christmas holiday. The course, content and speed of learning has all increased. With the new term comes a fresh new array of faces. Students from Italy, Vietnam, South Korea among other places. All of us swimming together in the often foggy waters of learning German.

As part of my New Years enthusiasm, I joined a few expat groups to get my year started. The AWA (American Women’s Organization), Inter Nations, as well as a group on meet-up.com called Internationals in Wien. These groups have given a jump-start to my new year with a fresh array of faces and activities.

Earlier this week I joined the AWA on a tour of Webster University, an American University with a satellite campus in Vienna, among other locations. As a native of St. Louis, MO, I knew Webster University well. It’s main campus is based in a tree-lined neighborhood of St. Louis called Webster Groves. I went to high school just down the street. Months ago when I discovered Webster had a campus here it peaked my interest. So when the opportunity to take a tour came about, I jumped at the chance.

It was great to be at the tour, see the beautiful building and reconnect a bit with the lively energy and intellect of Universities and all that comes with that. Also great was to meet many of the women who attended. I had the pleasure of connecting with American women who’s travels were rich and unexpected. One lived four years in Cambodia. Another was moving to Tokyo in a few weeks. While in some ways I do long for a life and place that feels more like “home”, I can’t deny the stories of life in foreign lands still inspires me to the core.

While visiting Webster I learned they had a guest speaker that night. It was Dr. Tho Ha Vinh, Program Director at the Center for Gross National Happiness in the small Asian country of Bhutan. It turns out the Dr. Vinh grew up in part in Vienna and has ties with Austria. His topic caught my attention, a theme in general of interest to me, and nicely in line with the book I am reading, What Happy People Know. This was an opportunity not to be missed, so I returned later that evening to attend.

vinh_tho I first heard of Bhutan and their Gross National Happiness project while watching a documentary called Happy. It explores
human happiness through interviews with people from all walks of life in 14 different countries, weaving in the newest findings of positive psychology. Bhutan and their GNH initiative was featured and it peaked my interest.

The general idea of Gross National Happiness is to take into consideration a wider, yet still specific and measurable, range of values and use this as a guide and tool for decision-making for the country. Bhutan is indeed a tiny little country with a total population of about 750,000 people. As mentioned by Dr. Vinh, up until the 1970s they still had primarily a bartering economy. And while since then it has developed in more modern ways, the aim and priority is still to serve the people in a more balanced and complete way rather than being completely driven by financial gain and the GNP or GDP.

Dr. Vinh shared there are specific and measurable way that they define happiness. Here are their qualifications:

Happiness cannot exist while others suffer.
It can come only from serving others, living in harmony with nature, and realization of our own inner wisdom.

Not the typical driving forces of a country! He went on to describe their Four Guiding Pillars.

Good Governance
Preservation of the Environment
Preservation of Culture
Fair and Sustainable Socio-economic Development

It was a breath of fresh air to hear Dr. Vinh share Bhutan’s exploration. Admittedly, he acknowledged this country is not without challenges. He shared that as Bhutan continues to develop in modern ways, their challenges grow and increase. But as a nation they are committed to decision-making based on a different set of values. Listening to his talk was a good reminder to consider a wider set of guiding pillars in my own life and decision making.

And so now my snowy Vienna morning continues. My fabulous host family busily prepares today for their impending departure. The whole family will have an adventure together for a few weeks in the fine city of New Orleans, my former home. I will remain here and enjoy the progression of my life and German Learning in Vienna.

Bye for now from wintry Vienna!

Tags: AWA, Bhutan, Dr. Tho Ha Vinh, Expat Life, Gross National Happiness, Happy Documentary, Inter Nations, Vienna

Categories A Sip of Wisdom, Travel Stories

Prosit Neujahr!

3 Jan

Happy New Year! 2015 has slipped into our lives. I find I am responding in typical New Years fashion, reassessing some things in my life, setting new priorities and taking action. My New Year’s celebration here in Vienna was a great introduction to some of the traditions here in Austria.

mushroomcup Austria brings an element of sophistication and elegance to the New Year. It was a cold New Years eve in Vienna, but still we spent a bit of time in the center of town, the heart of the celebration. We were surrounded by booths selling spiced wine and Austria’s favorite symbols of good luck for the New Year, including the mushroom and the pig. I was enchanted by the stage teaching people to waltz, watching the pairs glide around the dance floor bundled up in the cold winter air.

Back at the home front we shared a good meal and partook in the New Year’s tradition called Bleigießen, or pouring lead. It’s quite simple. Each person gets a lead trinket shaped maybe like a bell or a heart, almost like a monopoly piece. This is put in a spoon, held over a candle and melted. When it is completely melted, you dump it into cold water and watch what happens. The melted lead instantly hardens into a new shape. Here is the trick… you next look at the shape and see what it looks like to you and whatever it is, is your message for the new year. As we were playing, we checked out websites to learn the meanings of the many different shapes and symbols. Here are mine. What do you think they look like?

Bleigießen, a led pouring New Years Eve tradition.

At midnight my Austrian hosts were sure to dance the traditional waltz at midnight. The Pummerin bell at St. Stephens Cathedral rang. It only rings only once annually, at midnight to bring in the New Year. Neighbors were shooting off fireworks. And it was the New Year!

Welcome GyspyWomanCafe.com!

I have been ringing in the New Year with a few changes here. You may notice that I have a new URL and with it a slightly new title for my blog – www.GypsyWomanCafe.com. With this change has come some blog updates, a little redecorating and rearranging the furniture. Here are a few of the highlights!

New Blog Topics

With the introduction of Gypsy Woman Cafe comes a refined and expanded list of blog topics. Included are the familiar Travel Stories and Travel Tips. I am introducing a new topic called A Sip of Wisdom, where I will continue to share experiences and stories related to some of my favorite topics including spirituality, health and well-being. The Blog Topics menu can be easily accessed on the right sidebar of my blog. If you’d like to learn more, please visit my new START PAGE to get the full details.

Graphic Design and Reiki

I have expanded my menu to include a more detailed presentation of the services I offer, Graphic Design and Reiki. With my combined thirty years of experience in Graphic Design and Reiki, I am grateful to offer these services no matter where I am in the world. Please let me know if I can be of service!

Facebook Fan Page

I have updated my Facebook Fan Page to reflect my new title and URL with new graphics as well. Visit facebook.com/gyspywomancafe to take a look! And if you haven’t already, I’d love it if you’d “like” my page!

And so my changes for 2015 have begun. I look forward to keeping my momentum with a few new changes in other areas of my world. Top of my list of “new beginnings” for 2015 is to FINALLY find a yoga class I like and attend regularly during my time here.

How about you? Any new changes for 2015? Let me know! It’s always good to hear from you!

Tags: Graphic Design, Gypsy Woman Cafe, New Year, Vienna

Categories Travel Stories

Christmas Enchantment

26 Dec

It was Christmas day. I was needing a little jaunt about. So I walked out the door to see where my feet would take me. I didn’t expect much other than quiet streets and fresh air.

As I wandered not far down the road I was soon in the familiar museum quarter. I started to see pockets of people and soon realized that the Christmas market by the museums seemed to be in action… and so I partook! Despite my full serving of Christmas markets this holiday season, I found I still had room for a little pleasure from one last market. Just one more glimpse at the hand-made goods. And, of course, just one more serving of roasted chestnuts, maroni in German… my favorite.

My last Christmas Market of the year located between the Museum of Natural History and the Museum of Art in Vienna.

Maroni, or roasted chestnuts. A holiday favorite and my last sampling of the season.

A few things caught my eye and soon I made my first purchase. It was a beautiful spatula made from olive wood. I have come to love my host’s wooden spatulas for cooking, and this was a dreamy version of them with swirls and patterns in the wood. Soon after I stopped, mesmerized….but not making a purchase…at was has become my favorite book maker this holiday season, Bomo Art from Budapest. With their traditional handmade books and rich designs, I am a new fan. Check them out if you like at their website.

My feet then led me just a little further into the inner city. I was in good company with a gathering of international visitors and tourists. Soon I was in the heart of the city and once again, simply enchanted by Vienna. All decked out in her fancy Christmas decorations, I discovered visual delight around every corner. It was raining that day which cast a slight gloss on the city, merely adding to her beauty.

Christmas beauty in the inner city of Vienna

Wet winter streets in Vienna

I took a peek inside the St. Peter’s cathedral and was simply blown away by the feeling of reverence and visual beauty. I took in a few extended moments of silence, awe and prayer. Not long after I wandered again by St. Stephens Cathedral. I had visited this cathedral before, but had heard there was a great view from the top that I had not yet checked out. I snooped around trying to find the way to get there and soon found a place to buy lift tickets for just 5 Euro. Okay, I thought… and bought a ticket.

The astounding beauty and reverence of St Peter’s Cathedral.

As I boarded the tiny elevator with five other guests, I said a silent prayer that I didn’t have a panic attack from feeling claustrophobic. This, as it turns out was the wrong prayer… because when we exited the elevator I was shocked by another tiny area – but this one was at the top of the cathedral giving way to the outdoors and the city. There were no solid floors, but grated floors and walls leaving me feeling completely vulnerable and triggering my fear of heights. “Oh… I should have thought about this before hand…” I said aloud to myself and no one else in particular. After exiting the elevator, I stayed glued to a small patch of wall and solid floor, as panic flashed through my eyes. I did my best to breath and relax for a few minutes until gratefully the elevator returned and I quickly made my exit. Phew.

It was still a beautiful outing nonetheless. And another of those simple but powerful moments that remind you what travel has to offer… unexpected moments of beauty and enchantment in a way the feels fresh, new and alive.

With that, I wish you much peace, comfort, rest and delight with the remaining time on your holiday season, wherever you are in the world. And rich blessings for the New Year!

Tags: Travel

Categories Travel Stories

The Three Days of Christmas

21 Dec

It’s a cool evening on the solstice in Vienna. I am tucked away in my room in the midst of a bustling city preparing for the holidays. Christmas trees are being sold on every corner and the Christkindl markets are still in full swing.

Today I returned from a one-night get-away with my generous hosts here in Vienna. We snuck away to a neighboring town, met with friends, and attended a holiday concert featuring… Irish Music. This event has become an annual tradition in my hosts’ household, each year showcasing a new selection of traditional and more contemporary Celtic music. This year three groups were featured, my favorite being the vibrant sounds of Beoga. They were the last act of the evening and when their music burst into the room the feeling was… Yes! Their sound was fresh, fun and alive…in a traditional Irish sort of way.

There was some strange weather in the air this solstice weekend. It began with the explosion of color in the sky at sunset that looked like lava flooding the clouds. It was unlike anything I had ever seen before. I was told it came from warm air that is somehow distinct because of the surrounding mountains. This picture below doesn’t do it justice, but gives you an idea of what it was like.

Fire Clouds

Earlier this week I took a little departure to the Christkindel market at the Schonbrunn Palace. It was an impressive welcome with the Palace and grand traditional Christmas tree. I took in what has now become the familiar elements of an Austrian Christmas Market… the holiday Punch, a spicy wine concoction; holiday favorites like goulash soup and, my favorite, roasted chestnuts. The goods at the market reflected Austria’s serious approach to the holidays with its traditional Christmas gems and crafts. It’s quite a treat to just hop on the underground and be able take in events such as this.

Christkindl Market Schonbrunn Palace

Today has been a quieter day for me with a simple stroll around my Vienna neighborhood and lunch at a local eatery. I still appreciate just the simple beauty of Vienna and my neighborhood. It’s great to have a quiet day simply to just take it in. Here are a few photos.

Today at lunch, as I was preparing to leave the restaurant, the owner handed me my left-overs bundled up and ready to go. He was so kind and I wanted to show my appreciation. I had to laugh as my natural inclination after nearly two years in South Korea is still to… bow… and I did, without even thinking about it. In truth I am still a big fan of the bow… as well as the two-handed Korean wave good-bye. I suppose new habits die-hard.

Bye the time I leave Austria, I imagine my greeting and leaving habits will be all twisted up. In both Korea and Austria the familiar American hug is often met with suspicion and confusion. I can still remember the time I innocently reached out to hug a young Korean friend after sharing a personal moment. As I went for the hug I saw the look of horror in her eyes. I quickly pulled back recalling, that’s right… in Korea you don’t hug. In Austria one says hello and good-bye with a handshake or a kiss on each cheek. It is still a bit odd for me negotiating with new friends and acquaintances what is appropriate. I am sure wherever I am next, I will carry over these Austrian traditions and be some sort of a multi-cultural hugging, bowing, kissing American.

Christmas now is just a few days away. I am grateful to be spending the holidays in Vienna in the comforts of my new “home” and host family. Christmas is a little different here. In total, there are sort of three days of Christmas in Austsria. Typically, the 24th is the big family celebration and that is the day presents are exchanged. The presents are not delivered by Santa Claus but instead by the Christkindl, a symbolic figure who I am told looks like an angel sort of person with blond hair. Here is an image I found of the Christkindle. The following days, Dec. 25 and 26th, are also official holidays and typically spent more relaxed in the company of family and holiday food.

Christkindl

Ah, so now a bit more time relaxing into my evening. What about you, what will you do for this holiday? Any new traditions? It’s always great to hear from you!

Tags: Travel

Categories Travel Stories

Tis the Season!

12 Dec

I am feeling a little lighter today. It is Friday and I completed my verbal final exam for my very beginners German course. It was easy. What a relief. I am not saying that I spoke eloquent German during my exam, but I understood most of what she said and I had a response… in German. I also received the results of my written final exam taken earlier this week and I did well! So… A-2 German, here I come!

I won’t say that I am loving German. But I won’t say I hate it either. I find I appreciate having a sliver of life dedicated to beginning to speak and understand a new language. But it is still a challenge. At dinners with groups of German speakers, or even one on one, what I don’t know far outweighs what I do. And that’s okay. As my German teacher says… completing A1 German I can’t yet expect to be conversational. I have learned to introduce myself, say a few things I like, tell the time, read numbers. And so it goes.

I recently began a language exchange with a new friend from the local Vienna SGI Buddhist group. We speak German for a half hour… then English for a half hour. After our first meeting I am … encouraged. It is nice to have an opportunity to connect with someone local and to share language. Of course when we speak German it is the simplest of words, questions and terms. And when we speak English it is a bit more… conversational.

The holidays are creeping closer. You can’t mistake that it is the Christmas season if you live in Vienna, with holiday decorations and Christkindl Markets on every corner. This past weekend a Christmas tree market opened up practically outside our door. I am told on the weekends now the streets of the popular Christmas markets will be flooded with tourists. Tis the season!

This afternoon I took a shopping break and then met with my lovely host for a little outdoor harp concert. The concert was at a Christmas market in an area called Karlsplatz. You couldn’t ask for a better scene – historic buildings, twinkling christmas lights, quality hand-made items at the market.

Holiday shopping streets in Vienna

Children in Vienna up close and personal with the music.

Christmas market in Karlsplatz

How about you? Anything new bustling in your neck of the woods around the holidays? It’s always good to hear from you!

Featured photo (at top) a little Christmas fun at the Christkindl market.

Tags: Travel

Categories Travel Stories

Rainy Days in Graz

8 Dec

I recently returned home to Vienna after a weekend in Graz, Austria. It was a gentle 2 1/2 hour drive, picking up radio stations from Slovakia and Croatia along the way. After a soggy weekend, we enjoyed periodic flashes of sunny skies on the way home, catching my first glimpse of the eastern edge of the Alps.

Where the heck is Graz?

For those of you who may not know, Graz is the second largest city in Austria (to Vienna of course) with a population of about 250,000 people. A modest echo to the stature and presence of Vienna, it is beautiful and gracious in its own right with is mediterranean-esque colors and secret corridors opening up to festive courtyards. About 200 km (125 miles) southwest of Vienna, it is the largest city in the state or county of Styria. The county is known for its coat of arms, distinct culture, and all things pumkin – pumkin lasagna, pumkin soup, pumkin oil, pumpkin streudel. Traveling to Graz is a good reminder that eastern Europe is there just on the edge waiting to be discovered with Slovenia, Croatia and Hungary kilometers away.

I was fortunate to travel to Graz with my Vienna friends and hosts, who graciously invited me to join them as they traveled there for their mom’s 75th birthday celebration. The intensions of the weekend for family fun and sightseeing where a bit dampened by the persistant rain and cold weather. But even in the rain and cold, a wet glimpse of Graz was worth the trip.

View from the Top

One of the highlights of the weekend was a quick walk up a daunting series of steps on the side of a mountain-like hill in the center of town. Despite a few flashes of anxiety and heart racing on my part (I don’t like heights…), the view of the city and looking out over the rooftops made the modest effort worthwhile.

A sea of stairs going up the hill in town center, Graz

View from the hill in Graz City Center

Charming rooftops viewed from the hill in the center Graz

We stayed in a welcoming hotel in the outskirts of town. Ever the tourist in Austria, I was grateful for the burst of hills I viewed from my hotel window. The weekend was filled with wet taxi skirmishes, warm food and family gatherings. We even went on an enchanted fairy tale train ride inside the mountain for the benefit of our youngest companion.

View of the damp hills in the distance from our hotel in Graz.

A cool peek inside the hill in center Graz, featuring a fairy tale trainride

I was reminded that Austria is a Catholic country with the ever present Christkindel holiday markets and the annual ice sculpture of the nativity scene.

The annual nativity scene ice sculpture in Graz

And now we have returned home. Today, Monday, December 8, is a bank holiday in Austria so we’re enjoying the benefits of no work, no classes. While the busy family life of my hosts continues this afternoon with holiday party obligations, I am grateful to be at my Vienna home noodling around with some things in my life. My companion for now is a cup of tea as I am busily engaged with my computer, donned in a wool sweater and scarf to ward off the cold.

Ah, and so some time unwind…. and feeling grateful…for Graz.

Tags: Graz, Styria, Travel

Comments 2 Comments
Categories Travel Stories

An Eternity to Learn German

22 Nov

The cool nearly winter air is slowly finding its way into Vienna. It’s funny, last week it was warmer in Vienna than it was in New Orleans, my former home and current location of my Austrian hostess. The word here is that the fall in Vienna has been much warmer than typical, and that is just fine with me.

The past few cooler weeks have brought a settling in of sorts to current life and rhythms in Vienna. With “mom,” my Austrian hostess, still on her New Orleans adventure, most weeks for me have included a fairly regular syncopation of German class, studying, meal preparation and child care. My young German-speaking friend and I continue to find our way with one another. Often there is a comfortable silence, or singing or playing. I do my best to use my limited German knowledge to communicate the simplest of ideas. My young Austrian friend (she is 6), the daughter of a linguist, is a discerning audience. I have to try my very best when pronouncing words or else meet with her disapproval. I did have a recent success with her. I read her a children’s book….in German. It turns out it is possible to read fairly well in German without understanding what you are saying. I went along and read the words and she chuckled and laughed along the way. Her dad asked if I did a good job reading and she nodded an enthusiastic yes… so while my German is slow in coming, apparently I have gained something.

I am feeling easier with my German class although my hesitation to try speaking and using German remains. Last week I tried a few words with some new Austrian friends. Apparently, instead of not I said naked… ah, and so it goes… I am mostly enjoying my regular German class with my bundle of classmates sharing the journey through its thick woods. Our class is taught all in German and at times I can keep up and understand what she is saying. At other times I am lost and have this glazed look upon my face. I sit wondering if she will call on me next, and when she does I feel like a deer caught in the headlights.

I am often surprised at little things I discover in the German language… the many rules that make no sense and our teacher just laughs and sighs encouraging us to just memorize it… and reinforcing that yes, German is an interesting language… I often think of Mark Twain’s famous quotes about German including, “I never knew before what eternity was made for. It is to give some of us a chance to learn German.”

We were practicing numbers in class the other day. At first as they were written I thought they were presented as a puzzle or a trick… but in fact they are actually written that way… in one long stream of words. For example, 6744 is written as sechstausendsiebenhundertvierundvierzig. Got it?…

As I continue to find my way in Vienna, I am glad to have connected with the local chapter of SGI (Soka Gakkai International), an international Buddhist organization. It brings some ease to my life here to have local friends to connect with. I still enjoy the beauty of the city, but somehow it is even better as the backdrop for participating in ordinary life and events. The Vienna SGI chapter is quite relaxed and they make it simple and fun even though I don’t speak German. Most members I have met so far speak some English and they are at ease and helpful at translating for me.

I appreciated when attending my first meeting, at the end of the meeting a long-time member from Japan read something in Japanese. As she read the quote, another member translated that into German. And then another member translated it from German into English. All with ease and grace.

I had a birthday this week. A new age has slipped into my life. In many ways as the years continue to add-on…. it gets easier and easier. I feel less burdened with a new age than I did when say I was in my 30s. It feels like the previous year was spent laying a stronger foundation, and so this year has new strength to stand on.

For my birthday I celebrated by taking a little break in the afternoon to get a massage. In the evening my host was kind enough to take me out for a birthday dinner. He said that he was used to having a date on that evening as his wife has the same birthday as me. Before departing for dinner she and I had a quick birthday Skype from New Orleans. That night she celebrated in New Orleans and her husband, daughter and I celebrated with dinner at a local Vienna eatery, Restaurant Witwe Bolte. A quiet little nook down a narrow road not far from their house, it was a great birthday meal.

And now the weekend continues. Enjoying some of the comforts of home. Preparing to spend Sunday at a workshop with the Art of Living in Vienna. Good night for now from my Vienna home.

Photo enjoying the beauty of ordinary life in Vienna.