Archive | February, 2015

Vienna Winter

23 Feb

It’s a grey Monday in Vienna.  The common sentiment I seem to hear lately is, “Is winter over yet?”  In truth, winter here has not been that cold…. but still winter, nonetheless.  Recently the cold has diminished enough to rain instead of snow.  But the sentiment and mood of a long grey winter remains. The early birds are starting to arrive which gives me hope that perhaps spring is not far around the corner.

I took my German test today.  If was our first of two tests in the trimester.  This past weekend I did my best to fill my brain with the words and grammatic understanding from the course so far.  I tried to polish up some very rusty studying skills and diligently wrote note cards trying to understand and remember everything.  And the test?  Well, in truth I found it hard. It began with a listening and reading test which were both quite easy.  But when it came time for the grammer I was unsure about many of my answers.  After the test I was glad to learn I wasn’t alone as other classmates left the room wiping the sweat off their brow.  The good news is, it’s over.

After class I needed some post-test unwind time… to shake off some of my nervous and studying energy.  I took a walk around not far from where I live, near the Rathaus or City Hall.

Even though winter is grey and long, Vienna does it pretty well.  For the most part, people embrace winter here as well as the many possible winter activities. This is a bit contradictory to my nature as when it is cold I like to hibernate and stay warm. But I can’t deny my slight enchantment with winter Vienna.Skating at Eintraum, Vienna

Today on my post-test stroll I wandered by the Eistraum (translation is ice dream) an impressive skating and winter play area in front of the Rathaus.  It’s a maze of ice skating paths and arenas for young and old alike.  I stopped and caught a glimpse of some of the afternoon skaters, some whizzing by and others relying on the wall for stability.

Eintraumpaths

While it was fun to watch, I can’t say that I wanted to grab my skates and glide along. Perhaps too many memories of adolescent Friday nights and bad 80s music.

So for now, I am warm and cumfy back at home.  Life has been somewhat quiet lately as I’ve settled into my modest caretaking role while my hostess is away in the US.  And the grey winter continues.

How is life for you wherever you may be?  It’s always good to hear from you!

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Valentine’s Diversion

15 Feb

Yesterday was Valentine’s Day.  A day in truth I typically forget and don’t pay much attention to.  When I exited the underground into the heart of the city, I was greeted by the always impressive Saint Stephen’s Cathedral and a feisty (in a laid back Viennese sort of way) assortment of costumed workers selling tours in a wide selection of languages.  I turned the corner and noticed a few men selling brightly colored roses.  I paid them no mind and continued on my way, enjoying the sunshine and focused on navigating to my tourist destination for the day.

Ever the bad navigator, I walked in the wrong direction.  But perhaps not wrong after all.  I passed by an impressive building, doors open with a red carpet welcoming a steady collection of people.  I paused and looked hesitatantly, curious what was happening.  A kind man offered me a red envelope and then said something to me in German (which mostly I still don’t understand…)  “Ich spreche Englisch…” I offered.  Like many Viennese, he easily flipped the switch and changed his conversation to English.  “I have a Valentine letter for you from God” he said as he offered the red envelope in a friendly and gentle manner.  The building as it turns out is the home of the Archbishop and once a year he opens the doors… on Valentine’s day.  I was invited in for a spell to have some tea and rest a bit in the chapel if I like.  “Sure” I said.  Who am I to turn down a Valentine’s invitation from God.  So, gratefully, I accepted the letter and made my way inside.

I followed the red carpet elegantly escorting me into the courtyard with friendly yet reserved folks there to welcome me and others guests.  There were lit torches along the pathway that eventually led to the chapel.  At the entrance I was offered a sheet of paper to write down my prayers or intentions as well as some candles to light.  I made my way into the intimate space filled with gentle music being played and sung live from the first few rows.  I took a moment to pray and made and effort to hold back the tears and sobs that often want to come rolling out when I enter a place of prayer.  I did my best to lay down my burdens for the day and took a moment to reflect surrounded by the quiet energy of the other visitors who seemed somewhat like me, a bit unsure but also enchanted by this unexpected diversion.

I brought my written intentions to the front of the chapel and dropped them into the bowl collecting them, lit my candles and selected a bible verse printed on strips of paper in a bowl to the right.  I took a glimpse at the verse thinking perhaps my A-2 level German had prepared me to understand just a bit…. but that was not the case.  Shortly after, I left with my bible verse and Valentine’s letter from God, both in German to be understood or translated at a later time I suppose.  But still, a gift nonetheless.

After that, I continued on my way.  I reworked my navigation, became clear I went (sort of) in the wrong direction, and shortly after arrived at my planned destination.  But still, appreciative of my unexpected Valentine’s diversion and grateful for the gentle reminder of love and the simple but generous act of a small collection of volunteers in the heart of Vienna.

Featured image, a burst of light through a narrow corridor in the heart of Vienna.

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Humbling

4 Feb

I just came home from German class and running a few errands.  When I walked in the woman who cleans the home where I stay was already here and at work. She doesn’t speak any English, so often we smile and don’t have much to say. Today I braved a few German words… “You are a bit early” I said in what I hope was proper German. It seems I am more likely to try to communicate in German immediately after class. It is like I am more tuned into the language and less in my American brain. A few minutes later we had a brief dialog about some vegetables in the refrigerator and that I like to drink warm water.  Her face lit up and smiled as I did my best to express some simple thoughts in German.  Basic. Not much.  But still, it is more than when I arrived here four months ago.

I can’t help but notice how humbling it is to learn and speak another language. Going from feeling like a “master” in my domain to feeling somewhat like a child. German class today was pretty good but it was also a bit par for the course… sailing along understanding about 30 – 40 % of what the teacher is saying. Doing my best to ask questions in class in German…. my simples questions often misinterpreted by our teacher.

It is quite a new experience for me, being in “midlife” learning and meandering through the beginnings of learning a new language. It is different from when I studied French in high school, tolerating the lessons, then forgetting them when I walked out the door. I was like many of the kids who I taught in Korea… not understanding the value of learning a second language and no real practical place to speak or practice it.

Being surrounded by the language I am learning is quite a different things. Here as a student I am no longer in the comfort of my familiar territory. I am the lone American and native English speaker in my German class. I am also lumped in the with sea of other Americans, some of whom are unwilling or uninterested in learning another language. From my time here in Vienna studying German I have come to more fully understand that as an English speaker from the large country of the United States and the international acceptance of the English language, it is perhaps more challenging for me to let go of my native tongue a bit and make room for play with a new one.

Lately a few people have contacted me for English tutoring. I can’t help but notice my restored ease returning to my comfort zone and place of confidence. But as I consider tutoring, I also try to keep in mind and remember my own vulnerability in the German classroom. This experience alone is an education.

As I am surrounded by mostly my European classmates, many of them speaking two or more languages, I am indeed in good company but in some ways a world apart when it comes to language. They live on a continent where neighboring countries are like the next state, each with its own culture and language. The need as well as the access to the a multi-language world is quite different from the wide English-speaking canvas of the United States.

But I suppose we don’t travel to stay the same. Don’t explore new territories to not be challenged and learn new things about ourselves.

It is truly possible in Vienna to stay in a mostly English-speaking world. Often when I go to shops and am feeling unconfident or shy, I ask first “Sprechen Sie Englisch” before continuing the conversation. Most places someone will speak at least a little English, but I have encountered some with limited to no English-speaking. Sometimes when I try to fumble my way through a bit of German I am responded to in English.  And so it goes.

It is a grey wintry day here in Vienna. My hosts have been on their own adventure in the States. In just a few more days one of my hosts and their daughter return to Vienna while the mom remains in the States for a bit to continue her own work and adventure. It’s been nice to have a bit of time and space with the house to myself tending to the few basic things that need care while they are away.

All is well here as I continue to make my way with German class and a few local connections and commitments. Good-bye for now and thanks for reading!

Featured image at top:  A glowing Vienna sunset strolling home in the late afternoon.